Getting Started

Some things to consider when planning a backpacking trip in Grand Canyon are location, trip length, dates, weather, sunrise/sunset, and moon phase. Besides providing links to Permits and Climate & Celestial information here, I've added my Hikers Notes (Preparation, GearMeals, Tips) which I give out to first-time backpackers to help them prepare for a trip. Check out the pages and my Trip Reports, and enjoy your next trip.

Bright Angel Creek in flood stage, April 2017.

Which trail do we want to hike? If it is your first time in the Canyon, I recommend using the Bright Angel Trail off the South Rim. After 32 years of hiking in the Canyon, and one back surgery, I enjoy the Canyon best by hiking only 5 miles a day. See my itinerary for my May 2017 backpack, review what John Annerino says about which trails to hike first, second, etc., and get familiar with when/how to apply for a permit. My most favorite trips are off the North Rim (which requires an extra day on both ends for travel) down the North Bass and Bill Hall trails.

How many days do we want to spend below the rim? I think that 5 days/4 nights is just about right. Any more than that will add weight to the pack, any less than that is not enough time to unplug.

When would be a good time to go? The most popular time to be in the Canyon is March (Spring break) and October, but you will need to be flexible on the dates for getting the permit and you will have lots of people, everywhere. I prefer winter hiking. I join friends every February when they hike during the holiday weekend. Sure the days are shorter and the trail is usually snow packed (which is a good thing because it smooths out the steps), but the solitude brings you closer to the magic of Grand Canyon. When picking the month, I also look for the full moon and at meteor showers. It is better to be in the canyon the 4 days prior to the full moon, because it is usually rising early in the evening.

What are the temperatures in the Canyon? The Weather.gov website allows you to click to an exact location on a map to get the 7-day forecast for that area. Other websites also give you historical weather to help you plan ahead.

How do we get the permit?  Complete the Permit Request, for a party of 1, giving an alternate itinerary (dates and/or campsites), and complete the fields for alternate start dates if you are flexible (especially if you are attempting to get a permit during peak season). Fax, mail or hand deliver the Permit Request on the 20th of the month that is 5 months prior to the hike date. Then you wait. On the 1st of the month at 5:00 PM Arizona time, the Rangers shuffle all the requests received from the 20th to the 1st and start processing them on the 2nd of the month. It may take two weeks to get the email with the permit or the denial. If you get the permit, the week before the hike, submit an email request to the Rangers to increase the number in your party to include the friends you are taking on the trip.

How much will the backpack weigh? For a 5-day/4-night trip, with one dinner at the Phantom Ranch Canteen, the backpack should weight between 25-30 pounds, with an additional 3-5 pounds in the fanny pack. The backpack will have about 1-1/2 liters of water in a bladder bag, and the fanny pack will include a 1 liter bottle of electrolyte drink.

Be sure to get your Phantom Ranch t-shirt. The only place you will find these unique t-shirt and souvenir designs are at Phantom Ranch. They were first offered in 1992 for the 70th Anniversary of the Phantom Ranch, and the design changes every year. Kind of a badge of honor. So, bring some cash or credit card and start your collection. Click on photo to see my PR t-shirt collection.
Phantom Ranch 70th Anniversary t-shirt, 1992.

Happy hiking.