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| Confluence of Colorado and Little Colorado rivers. |
After our organization meeting in February, Dan found four strong hikers to join him on the 7-day trek down the Tanner, across the Beamer and up the Little Colorado to the Sipapu (and back)--Banker Bob, Pilot Bob, Diane and Larry. This was intended to be a leisurely hike, considering the miles we would cross and the days we were taking to do it; and we began our adventure with a day on the South Rim as tourists. Arriving first at the Backcountry Reservations Office (BRO) around noon on Saturday, we picked up our permit and transferred the Beamer Trail onto our maps from the BRO map. Then it was off to locate the Youth Hostel for Banker Bob and Larry, and then up to the Bright Ange Lodge to feed hungry Pilot Bob and Diane. After a nourishing apple pie a la mode, Pilot Bob, Diane and Dan checked into a room at the BA. Diane stayed behind in the room trying to recover from a recent allergy attack, while the Bobs took off to be tourists--first to the Visitor's Center and then a walk along the rim. After Banker Bob ad Larry checked into the Hostel, we meet back at the BA for dinner and more pie a la mode. After many tales and stories of flight and fright, we retired to our quarters in preparation of the next day's long trek. [You may know that the BA rooms usually have two beds, and on this day there are three of us in the one room: Dan, Larry and Diane. So, who slept on the floor, if anyone. That was determined with the flip of a coin. Let me just say that Dan didn't sleep much this night.]
Day 1: First at the door of the BA restaurant on Sunday morning, we all ate well in anticipation of our 9+ miles hike down the Tanner Trail to the Colorado River at Tanner Rapids. Arriving at the trailhead at Lipan Point around 9:10 am, we all took the traditional picture of "hikers at head" before descending the snow-packed Tanner. It was treacherous, but nothing a little "ass-slidng" couldn't cure, as we were shown by Pilot Bob. [The treads on Pilot Bob's boots were worn smooth and the safest way to descend the snow-packed trail was on his butt.] It took 1-1/2 hours to descent the snow-packed portion and finally arrive at the razor-back saddle of Seventy-Five Mile Canyon; then down around Escalante Butte to a small wash out of the breeze for lunch. We met a couple on their way up at the base of the switchbacks below Cardenas Butte. They advised us that the low trail was much easier going to Palisades Creek and not to bother with the hot high trail. Another few hours and we were all settling down on a sandy white beach on the muddy Colorado River.
Day 2: We arose leisurely, checked for traces of bandits in our food supply, checked our moving parts--both mechanical and human--photographed our campsites and prepared for a 4-miles trek up stream to Palisades Creek. It was another sunny day and the temperature was in the low 80s. We found a camp near the waters edge near the base of the trail where it went straight up the ridge for the traverse to the Little Colorado the next day. We had plenty of time left this day to return back to Tanner's Ranch and Mine for exploration and photographing, and still plenty of time for others to just sit back on the beach and watch a raft trip float by in the late afternoon sun towards Tanner Rapid. In reviewing the itinerary for the next few days, Banker Bob decided that his cold (which he managed to conquer for the first part of the trip) was not assisting him in replenishing his strength and stamina and that he thought it best to stay behind to recuperate for the trip back up. So, Pilot Bob, because of failure of equipment, stayed back with Banker Bob, and we would see them on the way out in the next few days.
Day 3: So, Dan, Diane and Larry rose at the crack of dawn and proceeded to the Little Colorado. The trail climbed above the River and at one point for about 50' became a very narrow trail right on the edge of the drop-off to the River, testing both Dian's and Larry's fear of heights; and then continued to traverse in and about the ridges and washes above the River for about 9 miles. Temple Butte across the River hung over us until half way, when Chuar Butte across the River became dominant; and then, approaching the end of Chuar, the clear Colorado River became evident. All three of us took photo evidence of being at the contrasting confluence of the muddy Little Colorado entering the crisp green Colorado River, and then continued down the trail and up river to the Beamer House--where our mighty leader found a stretch of level ground to take his afternoon nap. In search of drinking water, and realizing that our First Need filters wouldn't last a pint of filtering the slime of the Little Colorado, we shed our boots and pants [and one of us decided to take off more to keep all her clothes dry], and joined hands to attempt to cross the Little Colorado. But footing was rough on the bare feet, so Dan and Diane bagged their bottles and filters and took a quick swim across the Little Colorado to hike along the water's edge up to the clear Colorado.
Day 4: The night was clear and warm; but the morning showed evidence of possible rain. So we had a breakfast conference to analyze our plans for continuing up river to the Sipapu, wading or swimming the Little Colorado to see inside the Sipapu, and returning back down river for the night, in relation to our water supply and the weather; and we decided it best to not have to swim the Little Colorado under cloudy skies and to return to Palisades Creek on our existing water supply, and re-join the Bobs for the hike up. We proceeded down the Little Colorado to the junction of the Colorado and noticed that the Colorado was up dramatically from yesterday, which meant that when we get to Palisades for our water supply, the Colorado would not be a muddy as was before. By the tie we arrived at Palisades Creek, the sky was clear again and our spirits were up for exploring and photographing the nearby canyon and sunset on the rapids and walls.
Day 5: By morning, the water level of the Colorado was down 5'; but after seeing the Little Colorado, it still looked clear enough for filtering. We replenished our water supply internally and externally, and set off back to Tanner beach, stopping along the way to explore side canyons and beaches. Back at Tanner, we talked with a young couple who were heading to the Little Colorado and heard that they had met the Bobs and that they had left two days ago for the rim. We leisurely set up camp and went our separate ways to take care of our personal hygiene--after 4 days on the trail we were even offending ourselves. It was a perfect evening for settling back to watch the wrens and hummingbirds and, at night-fall the bats were our targets. We were awakened several times by the romping of the critters of the night playing on our beach and in our packs; but we always seemed to preserve our food supply.
Day 6: Up early for the climb out to the half-way point on the Tanner Trial where we cached food and water, stopping along the way for photographs of the river below and spring flowers along the trail, we arrived before noon and kicked back for a nap. Unable to fall asleep because we were too intent on watching the clouds creeping over the edge of the rim, we again took a look at our water supply and the weather, and decided to continue out the rest of the way that day. [We soon encountered a Ranger who also advised that we hike out that afternoon, since they were expected a snow storm that night.] Larry, fully recovered from his back problem, lead the way to the top with great performance; while Dan and Diane brought up the rear. At the top, we were greeted with smiling faces and hugs by Banker Bob and Pilot Bob, who had watched our ascent from the Desert View lookout. We regrouped at the BA Lodge and exchanged our stories of the days we were separated, and reflected on the fine week we all had.
Photos