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| Taking break at Fishtail Saddle. |
Drive day: Dan and I had the misfortunate of having our truck stolen just before leaving for this trip. We were starting the transition of moving from Phoenix to our place in Prescott, and the truck was stolen in the middle of the day in Phoenix while Dan was taking care of business at a book bindery. We rented a pickup truck to go on this special backpacking trip with our friends Dave and Tom. When we arrived at the trailhead, we met the other hikers and enjoyed seeing how they prep for these trips. They brought a case of wine and fixed salmon for dinner. They planned to take wine and steak down the trail for the first night dinner. Wow.
Day 1: Leaving Indian Hollow early in the morning, our large group of experienced Canyon hikers started down the Thunder river Trail. We were thankful for unseasonable mild weather but found the Canyon very dry. Our hike took us down the trail until we reached the Hermit Shale. Leaving the trail, we hiked down to the Esplanade level via Ye Old Rest Tree. We all spread out, hiking southwest as we followed the contours until we reached Ghost Rock where we had lunch. From there we proceeded toward Fishtail Saddle until we came to the Bean Cave and our campsite. In the afternoon, everyone but Dan, Diane and Dave hiked down Johnny Walapais Gulch to Hualapai Spring to fill our water containers. Fortunately, there was enough water for the trip to continue. We all stayed up late enjoying a clear sky of bright stars.
Day 2: Under a sky covered with high clouds, we departed the Bean Cave. Our original lan to hike around Fishtail Mesa was scraped because of the very dry conditions. Playing it safe, we all agreed to hike over the Fishtail Saddle and seek water down in lower Indian Hollow. We hiked to the base of a large talus where the frost Trail went up and over Fishtail Saddle. Tom and Ian hiked a high route while the rest followed the trail up from the bottom of the talus. The long climb up to the saddle in the middle of the Coconino was completed by lunch time. Everyone explored this area or enjoyed the rest time in the sun. After lunch we made our way down into Indian Hollow where we set up base camp. Tom, Mike and Dave hiked down Indian Hollow searching for water. They had to go almost three miles down canyon to find some weak seeps that yielded enough water to fill our containers.
Day 3: Tuesday was dedicated to day hiking and exploring the area around base camp. Tim, Dan and Diane explored the immediate area above and below camp while the rest of us went on a day-long journey to climb Racetrack Knoll. It was a beautiful day with white puffy clouds. Following contours, our route took us west of Indian Hollow around several side canyons. At the head of Racetrack Terrace below Butchart Point we proceeded out the flat terrain to Racetrack Knoll. Climbing up the pyramid-shaped peak of Hermit Shale was fun but steep. From this peak and its great 360 degree view, everyone but Ian hiked to the point above the mouth of Jumpup and Indian Hollow. From there we worked our way back following a route down a small canyon into Indian Hollow and to camp. Ian returned on a higher route after failing to find a safe way down to Indian Hollow wash.
Day 4: We moved our base camp under a large overhang to avoid bad weather but the new day dawned clear and warm. Wednesday was dedicated to exploring so we all split up and went on day hikes. Tom and Mike were the most ambitious as they climbed Fishtail Mesa up a route just east of Butchart Point. They spent the day hiking to Fishtail Point and back. Arnie, Ian and Dave hiked north over the Esplanade to Indian Hollow Spring. They found flowing water plus a large grove of Cottonwood trees with fall colors. Exploring the Indian Hollow Camp, both the prehistoric and cowboy camps were photographed. Dan and Diane hiked down Indian Hollow while Tim enjoyed the peace and quiet of a deserted base camp. By late afternoon, everyone returned and we had a fun evening sharing stories over dinner.
Day 5: Departing our base camp, everyone hiked with full packs over to Indian Hollow Spring Camp. After looking at the prehistoric and historic camp sites, we hiked northwest following the top of the Esplanade and made our way around Seven Deer Canyon. Taking our time and exploring along the way, we ate lunch above this small side canyon. After lunch, we followed the old cowboy trail to Kwagunt Hollow Spring and made camp southwest and above the spring. Since we didn't have far to hike, we had plenty of time to explore around Kwagunt Hollow Spring area. On both sides of the canyon were beautiful Supai formations with many overhangs. A number of prehistoric site were found but we were not able to locate a cowboy camp. ear one overhang, Dave found a 2-1/2 foot Great Basin Gopher Snake. Our day ended with another great sunset.
Day 6: We all got an early start on our hike out to the rim up the Kwagunt Hollow Trail. This old cowboy trail switchbacks up a talus to the top of the Coconino and then follows a route along the rim of this formation into upper Kwagunt Hollow. From there, the trail makes its way up to the road going to Sowats Point. We all made this hike up in good time and we were out by late morning. Everyone drove back to Indian Hollow. Once packed, we said our good-byes and Tom, Dan and Diane headed for Flagstaff. The rest of us headed for Kanab were we would spend the night.
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