Trip Leader: Diane for a 4-day/3-night backpack with Dee, Everett, Holly and Yvonne (for her first backpacking trip), for two nights at Upper Tapeats (AW7) and one night on the Esplanade (AY9).
Drive day: The drive up was uneventful and according to plan after leaving Prescott at 10:15. We walked out to the trailhead in anticipation of the next day. The wind was horrific, blowing up the trail from below. The parking lot was busy. There were signs up indicating the course of the Grand Canyon Ultra race starting the next day, and guys came out to set up tables and water stations. There was a heavy-set ranger who hiked out at 8pm, wearing a pistol, and spent some time reading the course flyers and the bulletin board, and then spent the night in his vehicle. The wind even blew the rainfly off the tent (set up between the vehicles as a windbreak) of the unfortunate pair who did not have a car to sleep in. Sorry Dee and Everett. Even the vehicles were rocking in the wind. Forecast was for wind gusts to 47 mpg and low of 70 degrees.
Day 1: Up at 6AM to more wind and on trail at 6:45. Slow going. We arrived at the Coconino ledge where when others from Colorado were on their way up, and we dropped our packs and gingerly stepped down, with the help of the other hikers. At 10:45, we cached water above the Redwall drop off, where we also took a long lunch break (and I laid down to rest my back pain). Looks like we still have a mile to go before the drop to Surprise Valley. Started hiking again about 11:45 and at the tip off in 30 minutes. Take a break near bottom of switchbacks at 1:10; back on trail at 1:30. The trail seemed to go on forever after dropping down the Redwall, and the temperature was rising. Everyone was tired. We finally see Thunder River, but the campground is still so far away. Close to camp, we see a snake. But, at 4:30 we grab the first campsite anyway, and collapse. Everyone tired, but no injuries; just one equipment malfunction...Everett has a bent walking stick. The outhouse at this campsite is primitive and hot, and we are cautious of the possibility of other snakes in the area. There is some discussion of changing plans to hike out of Thunder River to base of Redwall tomorrow evening after dinner (3-1/2 hours), sleep and then hike to water and beyond next day. To bed at 8pm, with 74 degree temp.
Summary: 10 hours 15 minutes to do 9.2 miles
Day 2: Today is a layover day for day hiking down to the Colorado River. Up about 6:30 with 62 degree temp. I was first out of tents. Ev slept in. No other campers at Upper Tapeats. River hikers passed through about 9:30 on way to Deer Creek. A little sore in upper thighs and two blisters on right foot; others seem to have many blisters. Two groups of river people up for walk to Deer Creek. Three backpackers ask if we are staying one night...turns out they have permit here also for tonight. They are a commercial trip lead by Dakota (he knows Tom M.) out of Flagstaff. We will give him our campsite at 3pm. He will be camping on esplanade tomorrow night. Long day lounging by creek. Temp in shade at 2:00 is 86 degrees. We spend the day relaxing by Tapeats Creek concentrating on rehydrating ourselves so that we could head out for a dry camp in Surprise Valley. We left camp at 3:15. At last shade stop at Thunder River to fill up the bottles and bladder at 3:38 and back on trail at 4:30. We topped out at 5:45. Take another break with other hikers and back on trail at 6:25 to cross Surprise Valley. At 7:20 we found a campsite just after sunset on the east side of a slope heading to the Redwall ascent. Two tents set up; some of us slept without a tent since there was unlikely to be any critters in this remote site. To bed at 8:25. Temps at 72 degrees.
Summary: Over 4 hours to go about 2.5 miles.
Day 3: Up at 4AM with 54 degrees and bright moon, no wind. Left camp at 4:45. At top of Redwall at 5:35 and wait for others who are following Holly's pace. We beat the sun! Breakfast stop at 6:30 at yesterday's lunch break and water cache. I missed the water cache but others were more alert. (Note: 6:45 sun at top of Kaibab.) Arrived at Esplanade camp at 8:20 with shade trees and spent the rest of the day resting and eating to take the weight off our packs. It is 70 degrees at 9:00 with light wind; 63 degrees in shade at 10:30. Planning to take 4 hours to hike out tomorrow. Want to hit trail by 6AM the latest. Group just came down in 2-1/2 hours. We took 3 hours to get to Indian Hollow/Bill Hall junction. 66 degrees at 7:15 prior to sunset. Plan to get up at 5AM.
Summary: About 3 1/2 hours to go 3 miles.
Day 4: Not much to do today, just get up the talus slope from the junction and then up Coconino ledge. Break camp at 5:30 in 52 degree temp. Left camp at 6:05. At Coconino ledge at 7:30. Again, we ran into other hikes on their way down and we were heading up the ledge. We lifted our packs with a small rope and climbed up the ledge to continue the hike up. The rest of the trail was very pleasant and we topped out at 8AM.
Summary: 2 hours to go about 2.5 miles.
Photos
April 1987
Trip Leader: Diane going solo for 7-day/6-night backpack down Bill Hall to Tapeats Creek, to River, up River to Deer Creek and out Surprise Valley to Esplanade. In March, I did a "shake down" trip with the Central Arizona Hiking Club, lead by Dan, on the Tanner-Beamer, so I felt prepared to do this alone. Here is how I remember this trip, since I can't find any notes (right now).
Day 1: Found my way to the trailhead and took my picture by the trailhead sign, as is customary. The start down was a wake up call when I reached the ledge that required that I sit down to get below. But, I forgot about the posts on my external frame pack and they nearly sent me head first down the ledge. I quickly laid down on my side to prevent the fall, and reassessed how I would proceed. I certainly didn't want to get injured on day 1. I did sign up for the check-in service the rangers provide, but that meant they wouldn't come looking for me until 24 hours after I was supposed to check in on day 7 of my trip. When I got to Tapeats Campground, there already were several men in camp and it sounded like they were having a good time (probably drinking).
Day 2: Continued down Tapeats Creek using the high and dry trail. Not many people use this trail (at that time) so I took it slow. Closer to the River, the trail was a bit sketchy as it went down some loose rock to get to the beach. As usually, there were boat people on the beach and they invited me to dinner. But, I knew I had to eat what I carried so I wouldn't have to carry it out 6 days later. The bathroom situation was poor, with boaters or previous hikers leaving traces in nearby bushes. Disgusting.
Day 3: Layover day and I used it to explore the route I was going to use to go down river to Deer Creek. Another route not used much. I found it and followed it a ways to an area that didn't appeal to me at all. It was a narrow stretch of about 20 feet that was open to a drop to the river below. I took a breath and scampered across it, and thought about how it would be to cross with an external frame pack. Oh boy. Didn't sleep very well thinking about that stretch all night.
Day 4: Headed out on the route down river to Deer Creek. Got through the narrow stretch fine, just moved quickly without looking down. Then it was new territory to find the way to Deer Creek. At the high point I seemed to lose the route, but I could see the destination below and made my way cross country to the next camp. A few boaters came up from the river for a brief tour of the area. I rested by the creek with my head in the leaves. Oh, oh. Something made a noise in the leaves...it was a pink Grand Canyon rattlesnake. It went past my head and under a bush nearby. I kept an eye on it, and thought twice about doing any additional exploration away from camp.
Day 5: Layover day to hike down to the River and up to the source of Deer Creek. Unusual to not see any river people this day. Then it rained, lightly.
Day 6: This day is for hiking up to Surprise Valley and Esplanade. But, I had a malfunction with my fuel canister...it would not shut off and fuel was squirting out, so I had to leave it behind (with some other debris found close to camp. And, I decided to cut the trip short, to get back early to see this guy I met on last month's shake-down hike. I thought about him often since our trip on the Tanner and I wanted to do more hiking with him, rather than alone. When I got to Jacob Lake, the first call was to the Rangers to check in a day early, then I called Dan.
Photos